Whenever curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.
This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the family totally shocked.
“I am utterly shocked,” states a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small shop securing such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.
This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.
However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.
The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.
It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.
Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.
“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.
Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.
“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.
This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary triumph.
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